Potato Bed Instructions

Potato Bed Assembly
Note: The four side panels are smooth on one side and ribbed on the other. Assemble the bed with the smooth sides facing out.

Step 1. Place four panels upright on the ground so that the lip of each panel faces down into the soil and the hinges interlock at each corner.

Step 2. Slide a Corner Pin into each hinge.

Step 3. Place the Potato Bed in an area that receives full sun. To reduce pest and disease problems, the bed should not be placed in an area where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplant were recently grown.

If you live in a region with very hot summer weather, you may need to provide partial shade or position your Potato Bed where it will be shielded from intense heat.

Results from our Test Garden
During the summer of 2001 we found that growing potatoes in a Potato Bed was much easier than growing in the ground - and the harvest was bigger! In fact, we harvested 53 pounds of Elba potatoes from just one bed. Overall we averaged 46 pounds of potatoes per Potato Bed. Here's how we did it:

Planting
First we loosened the soil underneath the Potato Bed with a garden fork, and then we filled the bed with regular garden soil. Two days prior to planting, we cut the seed potatoes into pieces with at least 2 or 3 eyes each and allowed them to callous over. We then planted 8 'Elba' seed pieces per bed in two parallel rows. Each seed piece was planted 4 to 5 inches deep and 8 inches apart. The two rows were 24 inches apart.

Caring for the Plants
Once the plants were well established, we mulched around them with about 2 inches of straw and continued adding straw as the plants grew. We used straw mulch to help retain moisture, keep the soil cool and suppress weeds.

Potatoes are thirsty plants, so we used drip irrigation to keep the plants well watered. We made sure that the beds received an inch and a half of water per week. In the absence of rain, we irrigated 20 minutes a day, 7 days a week, delivering about 1.2 gallons of water per day, per bed.

Harvest
Two weeks prior to harvest, when cooler weather settled in and the plants began to die back, we stopped watering completely. On harvest day, we simply pulled out the corner pins and enormous potatoes tumbled out.

Potato Basics
1. Use certified seed potatoes
You'll get best results if you use certified seed potatoes, available at garden centers or mail-order suppliers. There are hundreds of varieties of potatoes available, varying greatly in flavor, shape and length of growing season.

Most potato plants require 65-100 days to grow, mature and develop full size spuds. Early varieties that thrive in cool weather can be planted in the spring about two weeks before the last hard frost. We used certified ‘Elba’ seed potatoes. 'Elba' is a mid to late producer, is best planted after spring frost and can be left to mature as late as the first autumn frost.

2. Cutting seed pieces
Some potato growers cut seed potatoes into chunks as they plant and others cut them a few days before planting and let the cut surfaces callous over. Either method works well. Each piece should weigh approximately 11/2 to 2 ounces with no less than 2 to 3 eyes (sprouts) per piece. Small seed potatoes may be planted whole.

3. Preparing the seed bed
Loosen the ground and make it as weed-free as possible—weeds rob potato plants of needed moisture and nutrients. Potatoes prefer a rich loam soil with a pH of about 6.0. If you're not sure of your soil's fertility, take a soil test to measure the N-P-K levels. If your soil needs fertilizer, follow the application instructions provided.

Fertilizer application:
For soil with medium to low fertility, use 1 cup of All-Purpose Fertilizer (5-5-5) for the entire Potato Bed. Before planting your potatoes, broadcast the fertilizer over the surface of the bed and mix it in.

At mid-season, if the leaves are slightly yellow or the plants are not growing well, sidedress with 1 cup of All-Purpose Fertilizer (5-5-5). Pull back the mulch and apply the fertilizer in continuous bands along the sides of the rows.

4. Planting seed potatoes
Avoid planting potatoes too early in cold, wet soil. Let the soil warm to above 45 degrees F.

5. Watering and Irrigation
Growing tubers need regular and consistent watering. Whether you hand water or use irrigation, we recommend that each Potato Bed receive 1.2 gallons of water per day which is equal to about 1.5 inches of water per week. During the summer, an irrigation system with a timer is the best way to ensure potatoes receive a consistent supply of water.

If you use drip irrigation, install it before you apply mulch. Begin irrigating shortly after plants emerge and keep the soil damp, not soggy. The amount of rainfall you receive will affect how often you need to irrigate. You can use a rain gauge to keep close watch.

It's important you don't over-water the potato bed. This could result in rotting tubers. However, not watering enough will reduce your potato yield. When cooler weather settles in and the foliage has died back, stop watering completely about two weeks prior to harvest.

6. Mulch
Mulch helps retain moisture, keeps the soil cool and suppresses weeds. It also prevents light from reaching exposed potatoes which could turn them green and make them inedible. Once the plants are established, cover the soil with a 2-inch layer of straw and continue to add straw (up to 12" or more) as the plants grow .

7. Pests and diseases
Most pests and diseases can be prevented with healthy soil and consistent watering. If your plants do become infected with a disease, replace the soil in the bed before planting the following year. Add a humus-rich compost to discourage the disease from returning.

Identify the insects in your garden. Become familiar with insects that are beneficial and those that are pests. Common potato pests such as Colorado potato beetle and potato leafhopper can be removed by hand or controlled with repeated use of an insecticidal soap. Don't forget to check the undersides of leaves! Persistent observation and removal is the key to pest control.

If you have any questions, contact us at: info@gardeners.com