Flower Support Techniques

Some flower supports are designed to blend into the foliage until they are almost invisible.

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I use several means to support my plantings. I have a large collection of Japanese and German irises. Some of the German Iris are rather large. I support any leaning flower stalks with commercial one-ring stands or a simple bamboo stick secured with a flexible elastic tape.

My Japanese irises have been bothered by a huge amount of rain in New Jersey and, for the first time, needed support. I use a large plant ring for the plants that were bunched together. I tied individual stalks to the plant ring perimeter, while others, located in the center of the bunch, were stalked individually. Again I made liberal use of bamboo sticks and elastic tape.

My one successful peony is currently supported in a ring similarly like the Japanese iris; however, the peony is not currently tied to the plant ring. When the flower buds bloom, I plan to support each flower indivdually with those same bamboo sticks. To simplify this, and to produce larger blooms, I pruned out all but five of the largest buds.

The bamboo sticks can be purchased in bags of several sizes. I prefer the largest ones and easily cut them to size. They come in a green color and eaily blend into their surroundings. The elastic tape also comes in a neutral green shade. Old nylon stockings and old cotton T-shirts (torn into strips) work as well as the tape. As well, substitutes for the staking sticks can be found in the woods, under nearby trees.

For larger plants, larger support systems are needed. For instance, a large climbing rose has been woven into a newly purchased arbor that was originally designed to be a gate into our backyard. My wife insisted we adapt the trellis for the rose, and I think her idea is going to turn out nicely. I hope these suggestions help. Good luck.
-Walter, Barnegat, N.J.

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Place the taller plants toward the back of the flowerbeds, protecting them from wind. If necessary, place a stake behind the plant to loosely tie the plant to.
-Sara, Oklahoma City, Okla.

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I place flower supports (hoops) over plants that I know need support based on their performance from the previous year. I put the supports in place in the spring so that as the plant grows it grows through them and the foliage hides the support. Also, it is less damaging to the plant than trying to put a support in place when the plant is already so large it needs the support.
-Tracey, Harrisville, R.I.

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I haven't had much success with this. The things I've seen made for this have usually been too expensive for me. Recently a windstorm blew over my penstemon and it had just blossomed so I hated to let it just lie there. We had purchased a roll of short fencing material that didn't work where it was intended. I cut a length of it, cut off the wire on the bottom so the wires would poke into the ground, and wrapped it around the base of the plant. It hardly shows and the flowers are still enjoyable. I might use it more proactively the next time.
-Jan, Caldwell, Idaho

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I keep my flowers (irises, lilies, etc.) standing tall using bendable Y-stakes. When I run out of those I go into the woods looking for fallen branches that form a 'Y' and use that. I prefer the Y-stakes because the arms are long enough so that I can support an entire clump of black-eyed Susans with just two Y-stakes (one on each side).
-Barbara, Easton, Penn.

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Many of my coneflowers have been falling over. I have placed a thin rod in the middle of them and tie it to the plant with old pantyhose. You can't really see the rod or the pantyhose because of the leaves. Try it. It works!
-Candace, Pittsburgh, Penn.

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To keep my flowers tall, I bought a package of slender green wooden rods. They are about 3 feet tall and work perfectly. I tie them with those annoying cloth or ribbon things that come on clothes to hold them on the clothes hanger. I just tie them in a loose bow and they are easy to remove and do not cut into the flowers. Works like a charm!
-Sheryl, Norcross, Ga.
Editor's note: Try #2 Bamboo Stakes.

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I recently planted several varieties of delphinium, and found they they wilt after a prolonged or heavy rain. I could stake them with purchased bamboo or metal supports (LOVE the grow-through supports that Gardener's Supply sells!), but since I have so many of them, I take broken tree branches that litter my yard after the rainfall, and simply stick them in the ground. Fun, natural, and tidy.
-Gigi, Chicago, Ill.

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Plant flowers, such as hollyhocks, against a wall (against a building is best) or tall fence. This will help keep them protected from wind and help to keep them upright. For other more delicate stemed flowers, stake them with either slender bamboo or wood (pine or oak) before they get too tall, use strips of nylon stockings or specially made plant ties to anchor them to the stakes. For flowers such as coreopsis, use plant rings, which can be pruchased at any garden center.
-C., Richboro, Penn

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My garden is rambling and free-spirited over a half acre...

For support, I use branches pruned and stashed until the leaves fall off. Branches can be pretty in their own right. Sometimes, I spray paint them silly colors. Sometimes I let them hide in the foliage.

Remember, letting some "sprawl" means your flowers spread. For reseeding, sometimes, I let the flowers fall over. You know, when it comes to reseeding, nature knows what she is doing. Foxgloves have to be planted a certain distance apart. Ever notice how the tipped-over spikes seed baby flowers just where they can grow away from the mother plant? That's how flowers spread.

But, your tomato cages are all that will work for the veggies. This year, I got cucumbers growing up the ones that make boxes or fences. When summer is over, I fold em up and store them.
-Christi, Stockbridge, Ga.

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The north side of our home is dense ferns. We bought a large group of stakes from Gardener's Supply. Keeps them from falling down on the soft path that wends its way through the garden. Also, I bought some enameled hog wire. I put up four stakes--one at each corner of an area where some of my wife's flowers would get too tall and fall over. Then, I put up a large section, horizontally, between the stakes, about 18" off the ground. Now, that area is filled with blossoms, and they are supported. The leaves hide the hog wire. I put up 4 stakes--two close together about 4 inches, then two 4 feet apart. I put the enameled hog wire, vertically, 4 feet up these stakes. Between the narrow area, I planted my tomatoes. The grow nicely between the wire, and tying them off is simple. The branches and tomatoes hang over the wire nicely.

A tip: I add granite dust to the tomato soil. It really gives me a crop of big tomatoes
-John Hagerman Sioux Falls, SD

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Paula and I have been planting cleome each year. It is a tall, spindly annual here. You can buy wire stakes but they can be made from heavy-duty hangers such as those used by dry cleaners for curtains. Just straighten the hanger out to its full length and twist a decreasing spiral that overlaps itself 2 to 3 inches. Then bend the spiral 90 degrees to the rest of the wire. Push the wire into the ground next to the plant and then slip the stem into the center of the spiral. If the wind pushes the stem out of the stake, just add a turn to the spiral.
-Andy & Paula, Edgewater, Md.

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To keep my flowers standing tall (for instance, stargazer lilies), I use the branches trimmed from trees. After doing my pruning (while limbs are still green). I cut off all the small stuff, and use the branches to create natural stakes, some with three prongs (or more) in all directions. These dry out stiffen, and get used later to prop up my flowers. They look really natural, and complement the look of "wildness" in a garden.
-Dennis, Valencia, Calif.

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When the plants first emerge in the spring, I lay grow-through hoops on the ground so the plants come up through the openings. After the plant is about 1 foot high, I add the legs to the supports and raise the hoops to about 10 inches. For the taller varieties, as they grow higher, I add taller supports and move the hoops up proportionately about 3/4 of the plant stalk height if possible.

Otherwise, I use thin green garden support poles of varying heights for specimen plants such as my large flowering irises and I loosely wire them to the supports. I've found that I need to attach the tall single stalk plants at several points up the pole, ending fairly close to the flower head, otherwise wind or critters will break the stalk off at the middle.

For my antique hollyhock garden, I create four to five bamboo pole teepees and place these in the early spring about 2 feet apart. As the hollyhocks get taller, I either train a few of the larger leaves or the whole plant to come up through at least one segment of the teepee. This creates an antique garden look as well as supporting the plants very well. The trick is to get the teepees made out of at least 6-foot bamboo poles so they can be inserted into the ground a good 8 to 10 inches for strength, especially when subjected to high winds. Otherwise they will pull up.
-Carolyn, Massillon, Ohio

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I use tall plants towards the back as a background color and for stability. To keep them standing tall, I use broken arrows and fishing line. The arrows have a V cut at the top so the fishing line nests easily in the V. Then with the support of smaller flowers in front, I can't see the arrows or fishing line.
-Charyl, LaPaz, Ind.

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I use the round tomato cages that come in different sizes. They can be spray painted green, if desired, and they are inexpensive.
-Ingrid, Prospect Heights, Ill.

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